Travelog for Islay.
I just came back from a lovely week touring Islay and its many distilleries. Great fun, especially Ardbeg, Bruichladdich and Bunnahabhainn. Her is my travelog.
It’s the waving that I can’t get used to. It seems as if you can’t drive past anyone without them raising a finger of acknowledgement. In a friendly, greeting sort of way, I might add. It’s either a greeting or there was something seriously amiss with my car that they felt was notable. No, I’m sure that’s just the way they do things on Islay.
There’s no hurry, which is just as well. The main roads tend to straightness, but the undulating nature would make you seasick if you overdid your speed. Then there are the single track roads that take you off the beaten track. They are winding and hilly gateways to Islay’s wilder extremities.
So, what draws me to this Westernmost of the Inner Hebrides? Whisky? Well there’s enough of it, legions of devoted Americans and Scandinavians will attest to that. For me though, it’s the land itself that is beguiling, the contrast of the long peaty plains and rugged hills. On a clear day, there are views to die for. On a wet day, you feel glad you have the warmth of the distilleries to run to. Either that or appreciate the sheer majesty of nature as you receive a showering fresh from the Atlantic.
The island is shaped like a stubby triangle, the waters of Loch Indaal cutting inland, dividing north from south leaving the Northern shore stick out like a finger. On the south shore is the main town of Bowmore. The High Street rises sharply up from the small harbour and the loch side distillery to a rounded white church. The view was well used in the old Ealing comedy, the Maggie and the only change from the 50s is the number of cars. The church itself, built circular to ‘gi the deil nae place tae hide’, commands a great view over the loch.
From Bowmore, the roads south traverse the long peaty plains that meet the long strand of Laggan Bay. At the bottom of the island, the whisky pours out of 3 distilleries. Perhaps that’s just a dream! The main village of Port Ellen is a ferry terminal also where most of the barley for Islay whisky gets malted. Port Ellen appears a bit run down, but has contrasts. The main hotel stands derelict, bereft of the slates on the roof. Nearby, the local tandoori appears to be thriving. The view south is looking across a dangerous archipelago of reefs and rocks, with the shadows of Kintyre and Rathlin island in the background.
From Port Ellen you can also travel West or East. The Oa lies to the West. A peninsula crammed with prehistoric artefacts, abandoned villages and a monument to a ship that perished on the sharp rocks below. The East road meanders along the coast and past three distilleries before rounding the island at Kildalton. Here, one of the most complete Celtic crosses left stands proud in the churchyard. The road carries on as far as the mountains let you to the bottom of the Islay Sound.
The Northern of the island is called the Rhinns, after the local hills. Here, is a varied landscape of village and whisky, hill and moor land. The West coast has rugged bays that show the full wrath of the roaring seas. There are three main villages. Port Charlotte, is a pretty hamlet with narrow streets leading you to the harbour on Loch Indaal, Bruichladdich’s heart beats strong with its distillery offering work to 5% of the island workforce. Then there’s Portnahaven, at the western tip, A sheltered cove flanked on each side by a row of fisherman’s cottages. Straight ahead, the lighthouse on Orsay blinks in defiance to the Ocean beyond. Orsay island offers shelter to Portnahaven, so on fiercer days, the boiling Atlantic is in contrast to the more placid waters of the small harbour.
The East side of the island is less populated, but perhaps the most spectacular. The Islay Sound is a narrow sea channel that splits Islay from Jura. Its eddies and currents can be seen dancing on the water’s surface, especially at ebb tide. The Sound is best viewed from Caol Ila or Port Askaig, especially on rougher times, when the Jura ferry tends to be seen to be travelling sideways.
Jura is a rugged island dominated by three mountains known as the Paps. They rise from the moor, unencumbered by vegetation and an evening view is unmissable. The Bunnahabhain road is the best place to take all this in, where the Paps loom to one side as you gaze down the Sound towards Islay’s own brooding mountains.
Inland from the East coast, the Loch Finlaggan hosts the crumbling ruins of the seat of the Clan MacDonald, set on a small island. The interpretation centre nestles in the moor land and you can gaze across and dream of days past.
Then there is of course the whisky. Jura has its own brand, but Islay is famous for having eight. They are as varied in character from the taste to the process. All offer tours and none are the same, except you are guaranteed a warm welcome whichever you visit.
Lagavulin nestles in the woods of the southern coast, overlooking a ruined castle, while Loch Indaal laps on the rocks below Bowmore. The old ways of firing and smoking are still practiced by Bowmore and Laphroaig. They still lay out their barley on the floors of warehouses for germination. The local sparrows are fat! Bunnahabhain has a great Victorian feel for it buildings as it sits near the tip of the Sound. Caol Ila commands splendid views of the middle of the Sound, but feels empty with a workforce of only seven.
Two of the distilleries have recently risen from the ashes; Ardbeg and Bruichladdich were revived after corporate companies grew weary of them in the past. Rejuvenated by new owners, they buzz with enthusiasm, as they live the dream.
The new kid on the block is Kilchoman, recreating the farm distils of old. The road is a long and winding five miles from Bruichladdich, but it opens up to spectacular views of Lochs Gruinart and Gorm. It’s more magical on clearer days, when Colonsay and Mull brood on the horizon.
All the distilleries tell a good tale and show the height of hospitality and welcome. That’s a very fitting end to this article, as perhaps it’s the best way to describe the whole Islay experience.
posted by Geraint @ 12:35 pm
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